As the Shellplate bolt is tightened there is additional friction between the shellplate and the press. The shellplate bearing overcomes this friction. This stabilizes the shellplate and reduces run out. This will dampen the motion of the shellplate, reducing powder spills as it moves into position. You will also experience a better feel for each operation. Decapping, priming, and seating each have their unique feel. You'll know when a primer isn't right. With the reduced run out, case overall length will be more consistent. The result is a better operating press, consistent ammo, and increased run rates.

Lubricate the bearing with a little grease, don't pack it like a wheel bearing. If the grease is collecting gunpowder on your press that's too much. We use Mobil 1 or Slide-Glide.

We used to sell the oil-lite thrust washer kit. Feedback from our customers told us it wasn't a good value. The needle bearing has a far greater range of bearing preload making it much easier to tune precisely. We still have a pile of these oil-lite washers. If you bought one from us, we'll replace it with our needle bearing - no charge. If you want to try one send us a message before you order, we'll add it to your order for 25 cents (fits 650 or 750). Then you can decide.

How the Low Mass Detent Ball & Reduced Power Spring works:

Our Low Mass Detent Ball for the Dillon XL 650, XL750, SL 900, Super 1050, and 1100 is tough as nails. This ball is super hard, smooth, and lightweight. It's approximately 7 times lighter than the factory steel ball and every bit as tough. The low mass detent ball has less momentum when it locks up with the shellplate. The material also absorbs vibrations much better than the steel ball. This detent ball is highly abrasion resistant and will not be cut or scared by the shellplate. These are industrial grade and used when strength and abrasion resistance is required.

Both the low mass detent ball and reduced power spring are custom made to our specifications for this purpose. We didn't settle for off the shelf products that are close enough.

How the Camming Pin Bearing works:

The camming pin bearing replaces the camming pin on your XL650, XL750, or SL900. This is a sealed bearing, as such, no maintenance is required. It smoothly rides the case insert slide cam. You won't need to lubricate the cam to prevent wear, resulting in a cleaner press. To install remove the locknut with a 9/16" wrench, unscrew the original pin and screw in our camming pin bearing. Each half revolution of the camming pin bearing is .020" of adjustment. Before you tighten the locknut ensure the bearing rides square on the case insert slide cam. Use a 1/8" allen wrench in the hex at the end of the pin, to hold it steady and aligned when tightening the locknut.

We match the dimensions of the OEM pin. Our pin fully supports the casefeed arm, reducing vibrations and unnecessary wear. Reduced vibrations helps to keep cases correct side up when using a casefeeder. This is an exclusive feature of our pin, not available from any other manufacturer. We make this camming pin here in our shop, using tool steel.

Additional Information

Our kits were featured in the Nov./Dec 2011 issue of Front Sight Magazine

Hit Factor Supply, LLC is a proud sponsor of the 2018 Great Lakes 3 Gun Championship at Bend of the River Conservation Club. We have been a sponsor of this event every year since the inaugural match.

Frequently Asked Questions

Here is a list of questions I get every now and then.

Q: How does the bearing kit work?
A: The bearing allows you to run the shellplate tighter than you would normally. In other words, the bearing helps you overcome the friction of a tighter shellplate bolt.

Q: The powder knobs fit loose, will you send replacements?
A: The plastic powder knobs will form around the hex head on the powder adjustment bar. This may take a few days. If you need a better fit right away you could try warming the ring the nuts sets in with a hair dryer to soften the plastic. Don't get carried away with the heat, it shouldn't take much.

Q: Do I have to adjust my dies?
A: No, the bearing goes on top of the shellplate.

Q: Which lubricant should I use with the bearing?
A: Mobil One grease has more buffering effect compared to oils and seems to stay put better. Just don't run it without a super light coat of lubricant.

550 Series

Q: The sprocket is stuck on the shellplate shaft of my 550, how does it come apart?
A: Find a socket that’s big enough (3/4” should do it) to allow the shellplate bolt head to slide in. Place the sprocket/shellplate bolt upside down on the large opening of the socket and tap the bolt with a piece of wood. It should come out fairly easy.

Q: I can't keep the bearing adjusted, why doesn't it stay tight?
A: Don't forget to use the shellplate lock bolt on the left side of the ram to keep the shellplate bolt from turning.

Q: On the RL 550 B the shellplate bolt is not engaging the set screw on the left side of the press. What's the solution for locking the shellplate bolt in place?
A: When our bearing kit is added to the 550 the shellplate bolt is raised about 1/8". On some presses this is enough to prevent the set screw from locking the shellplate bolt. The solution is our extra length shellplate bolt, available for sale on our home page.

Watch this short video to help you determine if your 550 needs our Extra Length Shellplate Bolt.

The first picture shows the standard bolt extends about half way through the set screw opening. The second picture shows our extra length shellplate bolt completely through the opening. (Double click pictures to enlarge)

 

This picture shows the dimensions of the set screw location in the example pictures above. This will help you determine if you need the extra length shellplate bolt.

Use a machinist rule or other flexible rule to take these measurements, its really hard to use calipers for this measurement. If the set screw is .305" or less from top of the ram you probably don't need the extra length shellplate bolt. At .370" or greater from the top of the ram, the set screw will just catch the edge of the standard length bolt or miss it, the extra length shellplate bolt will fix this condition.

If the tip of the set screw is damaged, dress the tip with a fine file or emery cloth.

750 / 650 Series

Q: Sometimes the case gets bound up on the ejector wire, whats the fix?
A: Our cast Ejector solves the problem, or try bending the ejection wire to look like these examples. Use 2 pair of pliers and bend a small amount in several locations. This will take a couple minutes to bend a bit, test fit and bend a little more. Don't over think this. If you have to snap it into position around the bearing, it probably won't stay in place. The goal is lowering the wire and keeping it in place while reloading.

Here is a short video showing one way to tune the ejector wire.

Method 1
Uncurl the big end about 1/8", This will make the wire longer so it will still reach the hole on the platform. About 5/8” from the big end bend it down and that should clear the bearing stack. Then after an 1/8” bend it horizontal, the goal is to have the wire hit the case as low as possible.  This technique is recommended for  XL 650 presses.

Method 2
Another technique is expanding the large loop so that it fits around the bearing.  Open the angle a little to make the wire longer. This technique is recommended for  XL 650 and SL 900 presses.

Method 1 picture (shown on XL 650)

Method 2 picture (shown on XL 650) - this is the method we show in the video.
 

1050 or 1100 Series

A: Send your lock ring to us to machine. We will remove the thickness of the bearing from the bottom of the lock ring.  eMail us at info@hitfactor.biz and request a quote for machining service.